Folkwear Patterns - Japanese Hapi and Haori
About the Hapi and the Haori
The Haori, although traditionally worn on special occasions by men, is now most often seen on women layered over a kimono for street wear. The Haori pattern is a thigh-length lined jacket which is sized for women. It has a straight front opening and a finished neckband which extends to the hem. The deep elbow-length curved sleeves are open next to the body. The front and back are cut with no shoulder seam, and there is a narrow side panel below the underarm opening.
The Hapi is a shopcoat traditionally worn by storekeepers, craftsmen, and firemen over western-style clothing. It is sized for both men and women. Simple rectangles form the body, sleeves, neckband, and shoulder reinforcement for this unlined, fingertip-length garment. The study for the pattern was a firefighter's jacket, which had the rank of 'Chief' emblazoned on the back, while the front listed the name of the village, the fire department, and rank. This pattern includes silk screen fabric painting techniques and designs.
A pattern for the Tabi, the traditional split-toe slipper socks, is included.
NOTE: that the hem edge curves slightly downward in the front and hangs nearly 2" longer at center front than center back. Some of the drawings show the front hem to be straight across, but this is not accurate.
The pattern is printed on high quality white tissue paper, and contained in a generously sized zip-lock bag. There is plenty of room for your traced pattern and needlework notions in the bag also.
The Fabric
For your Hapi choose light to medium-weight soft or crisp cottons or blends, silks with body such as noil or shantung, linen, or wool. For the Haori, choose light to medium-weight soft fabrics with drape such as silk, rayon/viscose, or blends. Fabrics with nap, pile, or directional design are not suitable for either jacket. For the Tabi, choose medium-weight cotton or blends.
The Notions
If you decide to screen print the Hapi, you will need these additional materials. See the 'Authentic Detailing of the Hapi and Haori' inside the pattern. For the optional ties for the Haori, see the 'Authentic Detailing of the Hapi and Haori' inside the pattern. For the Tabi you need 35cm of heavy weight interfacing and 6 x large hooks and eyes.
Sizing
The size range covers a women's Small (bust 30" - 76 cm) to a men's Large (chest 44" - 112 cm).
- Misses 6-20 (Hapi and Haori)
- Men's 34-44 (Hapi)
Level of Difficulty
There is no specific level of difficulty stated on the pattern, and although there are interesting and new design details, the construction is straight forward and the instructions are clear.
